A path less travelled
At 73 and 67, we are generally in good
health. In the last few years we have walked the Camino Frances (San Jean Pied
de Port to Santiago), Camino Norte and the camino Arles to Jaca. Very few
pilgrims seem to have walked the Camino Mozarabe. Entries in the visitors’ book
in the albergue in Encinas Reales show less than a handful had passed through
in the previous few months. For photos of our experience of the camino Mozarabe click the link.
This camino does not have the sense of ‘treading in the
footsteps of pilgrims who have gone before’ that other caminos have. Doubtless
mozarabe pilgrims followed the same general direction but there are few shrines
or churches that mark the path as a camino de Santiago. Nevertheless walking
this path provides unique perspectives on Spain that you never get from car,
road or rail travel.
In places the way marking is good. In others, signs marking
the ‘old’ path still exist. Missing the new signs meant that in some cases we
followed an old sign and found that signs became few and far between or were
very indistinct. Generally too the ‘old’ path was longer and more difficult
than the ‘new’ path. Comments made by previous pilgrims in the visitors’ books
indicate that we are not the only ones who have followed the old rather than
the new signs.
The first two days climbing through the Montes de Malaga are
quite tough. The third stage over Torcal, which we did not walk, would also
involve a lot of climbing. From Antequera on the walking is easier, except when
it has been raining when there is a lot of mud. Much of the way takes you
through a vast area of olive monoculture.
If a hostal or hotel is to be found at the end of a stage we
prefer to stay in these. Anticipating a lack of accommodation in some places
though, we carried sleeping bags, enabling us to stay in the albergues when
there was nowhere else. Hostals and small hotels in Spain can be closed over
Christmas and New Year. A shame as winter in Andalucia is very similar
weather-wise to summer in England and so is a good time for walking. The municipalities
along the camino have made an effort to provide albergues if the camino passes
through their domain. The albergues in Almogia and Villanueva de Albaidas that
we stayed in were both new, and provided abundant hot water for showers as well
as some form of heating. One was attached to a sports centre, the other in a
building on the main street. Like most houses and apartments in Spain, the
buildings have no central heating. Heaters provided some warmth but we were quite
cold. The albergue in Almogia was well supplied with blankets to augment our
basic’ sleeping bags, but the albergue in Villanueva de Albaidas was not. One
of us bought thermal underwear from the Chinese bazaar across the road to sleep
in.
Malaga 26 December 2013
On Boxing day we had a lift from out home in Salobrena to the
Paseo in Malaga, a short walk from the Hotel Juan V (€45). After a Christmas
concert in the Iglesia Santiago, where a nun put the first stamp on our
credentials, we went for tapas and then to bed.
Malaga - Junta de los Caminos 10.8 km 27 December
From the Cathedral and we followed Santa María to
Constitution Plaza, Compañía to Puerta Nueva, and crossed Aurora Bridge. Then a
long hike through Malaga along Mármoles, Martínez Maldonado, Carlos Haya, Lope
de Vega and Lopez de Rueda for about 7 km. Near the top of the hill leaving
Puerto de la Torre, a small plaque on the left indicated the urbanization
Puertosol, where we saw the first yellow arrow on a wall (Colegio Europa
although we couldn’t see the colegio). Following the arrows through the
residential streets led us through scrubby land and under the motorway. From there,
we continued through a dumping area, then followed a high bank to the left
leading to a big hole in the ground. Climbing around this to the right we
reached the C-331 road to Junta de los Caminos.
Junta de los Caminos - Almogía (?) 12.4 km 27 December
From Junta de los Caminos we followed the yellow arrows down
the road to the bridge crossing Río Campanillas. After the bridge there was a
board showing the next stage of the camino. The path then started to climb
steeply through the Montes de Malaga. Where the directions we were following indicated
that the path started a decline along the Camino de Corbite after a farmhouse
with a pool (water tank). We followed a very clear yellow arrow pointing up a
track. After that there were some infrequent faint arrows which reassured us
that we were on the path although we subsequently learned that we were on the much
longer old path rather than the new path. We were lucky to eventually rejoin
the new path just before Almogía. After a bocadito and beer at the bar in the centre
of Almogia a helpful citizen phoned the policia to open the albergue for us.
Hostal Posada de Almogia was closed. The Albergue Noria (closed July and
August) is at the top of the town on the road to Villanueva in part of the
sports centre next to the sports field.
Almogía - Villanueva de la Concepción 18.3 km 28 December
Capes and gaiters were the order of the day as it was
raining as we left Almogia after breakfast the next day. Turning left from the
Albergue crossing the road near the hostel Posada de Almogía we followed arrows
taking us to a path that dropped sharply. After a house at the end of a track we
crossed a ditch, and followed the signs again to the Campanillas river. After
crossing the river which had very little water but was very muddy we carried on
to cross the C-3310 road, and then turned left between two farmhouses along a
track then into a field alongside an overgrown dry gully, climbing to a wide path
and turning left. The path here was not very clear because the field had been
ploughed and the arroyo overgrown. Arrows on flat stones lying on the ground
would be hard to see in spring and summer when there is a lot of vegetation. The
very muddy track (lots of scrapping mud off boots) took us to the road, and
turning right, after 1.5 km along the road we crossed the Horcajo bridge. Going
uphill we left the road to take the Camino Real on the right, which took us
below and to the far side of Villanueva de la Concepción before zigzagging back
up to the town (taking the road would have been much shorter). Beer and food at
the Zebar was welcome after several kilometres walking into a bitter head wind.
Villanueva de la Concepción - Antequera 28-29 December
At the Zebar in Villanueva we decided to take a taxi (€30)
to Antequera because one of us had trouble with a knee tendon and the albergue was
the only accommodation option. The Hotel Plaza San Sebastian (€35 a night
double) in the centre of Antequera provided a comfortable stop for two days est
and recovery. In Antequera nearly all the churches had set up Belen (nativity
scenes) and families were touring these in the evenings. We enjoyed a very
Christmassy, excellent Bach and Handel concert in one church and an excellent
lunch in a restaurant up by the alcazar.
Antequera - Cartaojal 11.4 km 30 December
From Santiago Church in Antequera we left along Calle de
Belén to Puerta de Granada, Calle Granada and then along a road between the cemetery
and the Dólmen. The arrows directed us across a bridge over the railway, and into
the Antequeran vega. The fields were white with a hard frost. Although on the
coast and climbing through the Montes de Malaga it was quite warm, once up on
the inland plateau mornings until the sun comes up and nights can be bitterly
cold in winter. The path crossed the MA-232, and then went under the motorway
next to the river Guadalhorce, then across the A-92 motorway to join the GR.
Here the track was extremely muddy after the rain making walking extremely
difficult for the 4.5 km through olive groves to Cartaojal.
Cartaojal - Villanueva de Algaidas 12.5 km 30 December
After coffee and buying lunch in the village shop we followed
the Camino de Cueva Bajas to leave the town. The road climbed through olive
groves for 6 km then dropped steeply for 3 km and climbed gently again before
dropping into Villanueva de Algaidas. The soil erosion in the olive groves is
alarming – deep gullying and soil washed onto tracks everywhere. The olive
harvest was in full swing and a constant stream of trucks delivered loads of
olives to the olive oil factory on the outskirts of Villanueva de Algaidas. Hostal
Algaidas where we hoped to stay closes on Monday, the day we happened to be
there. The Bar Pedro though had very good tapas and the keys to the albergue. The
Bar Pedro kitchen was closed in the evening but we found food at the Bar El
Chivo. The albergue, right on the main street, is spacious and has been open
only for a year or so. It has around 24 beds, hot showers and heating, but no
blankets and the building was chilly.
Villanueva de Algaidas-Cuevas Bajas 9.9 km 31 December
Because of the lack of accommodation on the next stage we
took a taxi from Villanueva de Algaidas to Encinas Reales. As we waited for the
taxi at first light, trucks and tractors were already heading out to harvest
olives.
Cuevas Bajas-Encinas Reales 5.7 km 31 December
The taxi (€30) dropped us in Encinas Reales. After breakfast
in a bar, where oddly a group of knitters was exchanging Christmas gifts, we
found arrows directing us up out of Encinas Reales. After a short climb, the
path dropped to go under the motorway and along the Anzur River, a very muddy
section due to the recent rain. Fortunately the river was not too high and after
crossing it by a ford we followed the valley to a large finca. From there the path
wound up through olive groves for about 8 km then crossed under the motorway into
an industrial estate on the outskirts of Lucena. From here it was a long walk
into the town centre and Hotel Yussafana. Being New Year’s Eve, bars were busy
in the evening but restaurants were closed. No supper that evening.
Lucena-Cabra 13.0 km 1 January 2014
On New Year’s Day 2014 bars did not open at their usual
early hour. Breakfast was churros but no chocolate to wash them down. The taxi
ranks where we’d hoped to get a taxi were also deserted. Fortunately, at Lucena
bus station where we’d gone to look for a bus, we found the phone number for a
taxi service. The taxi took us to the old station in Cabra (€15) on the Via
Verde. New Year revellers were still breakfasting in station, now a bar and
restaurant, so we enjoyed another more substantial breakfast ourselves. From
Lucena to Cabra and Doña Mencía, the camino follows the track of the Via Verde
railway built in the 19th century to carry olives – an easy walk.
Cabra–Doña Mencía 13.0 km 1 January 2014
The path along the railway climbed slightly and gave open views
across yet hills of olive groves stretching way into the distance. At the old
Doña Mencía station, we crossed the road to the Hotel Dona Mencia for a good
lunch and comfortable night (€60).
Doña Mencía-Baena 8.7 km 2 January 2014
The next stage also needed us to take a taxi from the hotel
to Plaza Espana in Baena (€20). After breakfast in a bar in Baena people
pointed us down through the town. We were confused as there was a camino sign that
pointed in a slightly different direction but we were assured that the two ways
joined up. Unfortunately it turned out that they didn’t and that we had been
directed along the ‘old’ way. This old path was clearly signposted as far as
the carreterra but after carrying on for 5 km and without finding any more
signs we decided we were lost and phoned the tourist office. We learned we would
need to return to Baena to get back on the new path. On returning to Baena we
found the pilgrim information centre in the Olive Museum that had been closed
when we passed earlier was now open. As it was nearly midday by this time and as
we had already walked 10 km that day, we decided that the best strategy would
be to take the bus direct to Cordoba and enjoy a couple of days there.
Otherwise the next possible accommodation was at Castro del Rio, another 20 km
further on.
Baena- Castro del Río 19.9 km Castro del Río-Espejo 9.6 km Espejo-Santa Cruz 13.1 km Santa Cruz-Córdoba 24.31 km 2 January 2014
The bus from Baena to Cordoba (€8 each) took us through more
hills of olive groves, and then rolling open country of ploughed fields where shoots
of wheat (?) were just emerging. Castro del Río does indeed have a castle, and impressive
walls overlooking the river.
Córdoba 24.31 km 2-3 January 2014
Bus no 4 from the bus station in Cordoba took us near to the
Mezquita and the officina de tourismo. From a long list of hostals and hotels
we chose one in the centre, Hotel Maestre (€40 a night). Though wet and cold,
Cordoba was abuzz with visitors. Food at the Restaurante Don Juan and Mercado
Victoria was excellent. It’s a great place to spend some time visiting the
Mezquita-cathedral, leather museum, archaeological museum, old synagogue and
just strolling the streets.
Córdoba – Malaga 4 January 2014
The train from Cordoba to Malaga takes just over an hour, and
follows a more southerly route to Antequera than the camino. From Antequera the
train passes through several long tunnels to drop down to the coast. In Cordoba
it was raining but the weather changed dramatically to warm and sunny in
Malaga.
